Wine and food pairing: salmon steaks and leek fondue

The successful match here lies in the gentle tension, in this ability of the wine to offer an acidic, mineral or slightly bitter backbone, which structures the overall harmony.

We'll naturally turn to gourmet whites endowed with a vibrant base, but rounded by ageing or maturity. Chardonnay, in its Burgundian version, is a timeless classic. Expressions from Meursault, Saint-Aubin or Montagny, when vinified organically or biodynamically, bring together the freshness of ripe citrus fruits, a buttery texture and sometimes a perfectly integrated woody touch that matches the mellowness of the dish. These wines play in counterpoint to the texture of the salmon while matching the soft flavors of the leeks.

Another great option is Chenin blanc from the Loire, particularly in the Savennières or Montlouis-sur-Loire appellations, when vinified dry. These organically grown or natural wines, buoyed by fine minerality and straightforward acidity, offer aromas of ripe apple, quince, beeswax and sometimes herbal tea, which resonate beautifully with the vegetal notes of the dish. Their natural tension balances the richness of the fish, while their subtle aromatic palette creates a harmonious interplay of correspondences.

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In a more southern approach, some organic whites from the Rhône Valley in the north, such as Saint-Péray or Crozes-Hermitage blanc, made from Marsanne and Roussanne, prove excellent companions. When vinified with precision, using organic or biodynamic methods, they unfold a full but fresh body, with notes of ripe white fruit, flowers and honey, without excessive heaviness. They are natural partners for salmon fondant, all the more so when prepared with a light cream or lemon drizzle.

For a bolder alliance, certain orange wines, made from light macerations on white grape varieties, can also lend themselves to the exercise. Their discreet tannic structure and aromas of zest, black tea and candied fruit add unexpected depth to the pairing. It's important, however, to choose cuvées that are clean and balanced, with no aromatic deviations, so as not to disrupt the delicacy of the dish.

Sparkling wine lovers can also explore this avenue. A fine cuvée of Champagne blanc de blancs, taut and lemony, or a biodynamically-produced Crémant du Jura, can bring that incisive, thirst-quenching freshness that gets the palate moving again between each bite. Their fine bubbles lighten the density of the salmon, while their natural acidity matches the stewed leeks.

In short, salmon steaks with leek fondue call for a white wine that's precise yet caressing, elegant yet lively, capable of dialoguing with the texture and aromas without taking over.